slicker. Â I focused on the mapâs tiny lines, tracing them as though following the broken veins on an old manâs cheek. Â Still, I couldnât remember if Iâd passed the Thompson River or not. Â Surely I had, I decided. Â The river must have been at a low or possibly no flow level. Â Or maybe the bridge was disguised by vegetation, and Iâd whistled over it while imagining first Faith Hill, then Martina McBride, and finally Heidi Klume in tight, threadbare jeans.
I squinted back down the road, trying to resurrect images of what signs Iâd seen. Â Then I moved my finger slowly back and forth among the tiny eclipsed and broken capillaries that attempted in vain to suck life from the blue artery coursing out from Des Moines. Â But the lines in Adair county, west of Madison county, were as white as Winsdonâs hair. Â Was I lost? Â If so, I couldnât remember when Iâd last been lost. Â Only hours ago Iâd been within rifle range of the White House. Â Now there wasnât even a farm house in view anywhere.
âHello!â I called.
I felt my voice being absorbed by the distance and by the endless curtain of corn as a shadow suddenly passed overhead. Â I looked up to see a circling buzzard, its wizened meat head angled downward, its wide, looping wings pulling it concentrically into spirals. Â But it wasnât circling me. Â No. Â Something out in the field. Â Something dying, perhaps. Â Not far away. Â A rabbit? Â A possum or skunk? Â I sniffed the air, but couldnât smell anything except the hypnotic incense of the tasseled corn. Â And after only five minutes standing in the warm silence, I decided to leave the car and walk in the direction where I somehow felt Iâd been traveling all my life.
Â
Although the hard packed dirt radiates less heat than blacktop might, I began to wonder how long I might walk before thirst took its toll on me. Â The thought was interrupted by a bee, which dive bombed into my chest and took a disorienting swipe from my open palm before flying off in a haphazard trajectory, but in the general direction of the cow. Â Approaching a bend in the road, I turned to look back one last time at my rental Taurus stuck in the ditch half a mile behind me. Â In doing so, I nearly walked right into a sign, half hidden in the corn.
Zion, Iowa, pop. 166
Well, Iâll be a âI stopped, wondering what I should call myself, now.  A lucky S.O.B.?  If I was truly lucky I wouldnât be stuck, in more ways than one.  And so I wouldnât be out there in the middle of nowhere, walking toward what Jay Leno or Dennis Miller might have referred to as âHayseed, Iowa.â  Or worse.  Of course, any small town between New York and L.A. would garner a Hollywood comedianâs appellation, I was sure.  To them this was flyover country, something their celebrity colleagues flew above between various awards shows and acting gigs.  Still, just being here didnât make me an ignorant redneck hayseed yet.  Although if Walter Mills turned out to be only a prankster, and if I then decided not to return to Hepkerâs insufferability , my neck might turn some guilty shade of red, in time.  In the meantime, I still had my graduate degree in biochemistry from Long Island State University.  That should console me, at least.  That should last for a while, surely.  And so I shouldnât feel personally insulted when some talk show host came up with such jokes between canapés at Spagos .
Well, Iâll be . . .
Damned? Â That had a truer ring to it. Â Iâd go with that one.
Hi there, Iâm âDamned-If-I-Know.â
Further around the bend, as if in answer to my quietly breathed prayer, the tiny town of Zion came into view. Â And as I imagined, there wasnât much to it. Â Fronting the sun drenched corn fields,