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type of bread that we all knew as children. One energetic woman in the East perfected a firm white bread that sold over the entire seaboard, with the result that many commercial bakeries are now offering a loaf of this same type. [ Editor: Beard is very likely referring to Margaret Rudkin, the founder of Pepperidge Farm. ] The vogue is growing in every section of the country. Then, there is the delicious egg bread [ Editor: challah ] that is so much a part of the Jewish food tradition, and its cousin, the brioche.
Have bread cut very, very thin for cocktail sandwiches. If you have a very sharp knife and a good eye, you may be able to cut it at home; otherwise, ask your delicatessen manager to put it on his electric slicer and cut it as thinly as possible. Have him cut it the long way of the loaf, for that way you save labor and get more sandwiches per loaf. If bread is very soft and new, it should be placed in the refrigerator for an hour or two before slicing.
Have spreads ready and soft, meat sliced, knives sharp, and off you go. Pile the sandwiches on a tray as they are cut; cover them with waxed paper and a damp cloth, and give them at least an hour or two in the refrigerator before serving. Cut sandwiches in fingers, about 1 by 3 or 2 inches, or cut with a round cutter.
Here are some of the “regulars”:
Anchovy fillets with chopped hard-boiled egg.
Thinly sliced avocado with Garlic Butter .
White meat of chicken or turkey with Chutney Butter .
Crabmeat mixed with chopped chives and mayonnaise.
Chopped ham and chopped chicken in equal parts and a few chopped, toasted Brazil nuts mixed with them. Season with prepared hot English mustard or horseradish.
Thin slices of baked ham and smoked salmon with plenty of unsalted butter; delicious on heavy black bread.
Chopped olives and nuts in equal portions bound with cream cheese.
Sliced onion marinated in Basic Vinaigrette Sauce for several hours and drained.
Sliced salami with Fines Herbes Butter .
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    BUCKWHEAT BLINI
    MAKES 12 SERVINGS
    A sophisticated form of tiny pancake made popular by the Russians, eaten hot as a first course with quantities of melted butter, sour cream, and caviar (fine California caviar or Gold caviar from the Great Lakes), smoked salmon, or herring, according to the taste of your bank account.
One-and-a-half ¼-ounce packages (1 tablespoon plus ¼ teaspoon) active dry yeast
2½ cups warm (110° to 115°F) whole milk
1 teaspoon sugar
2 cups all-purpose flour
½ cup buckwheat flour
4 large eggs, separated, at room temperature
3 tablespoons sour cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus more for cooking the blini
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Melted butter, sour cream, and smoked salmon, caviar, or herring, for serving
    Sprinkle the yeast into the milk with the sugar in a large bowl. Let stand 5 minutes, then stir to dissolve the yeast. Add the all-purpose and buckwheat flours. Lightly beat the egg yolks and add to the flour mixture. Stir slowly, then beat vigorously until the batter is smooth—this can be done by hand, with an electric mixer, or in the food processor. If using a food processor, transfer the batter to a large bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm, draft-free place for 1½ to 2 hours until doubled in bulk. Punch down the batter; stir in the sour cream and melted butter. Beat the egg whites with the salt until stiff but not dry, and fold into the batter.
    Brush a hot griddle or heavy skillet well with melted butter and drop the batter on it by spoonfuls, enough to make pancakes 3 inches in diameter. When the bottom is lightly browned and bubbles have formed on the surface, flip them over and brown the second side. Keep warm in a 200°F oven, drizzled with a little more butter. Serve warm with more melted butter and the sour cream, accompanied with smoked salmon, caviar, or herring.
    CARROT BLINI
    MAKES 8 SERVINGS
    A different and much simpler form of blini, basically a crêpe batter with shredded carrot added.