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internal steaming systems, which can be replicated on a smaller scale in the home kitchen. In recipes that require a steamy oven environment, you will need a large, high-sided metal roasting pan; 9 by 13 by 2 inches is a good size. Do not use glass or ceramic ovenware, since it will explode when used in such a manner.
    THERMOMETER
    If you are uncertain about the temperature of your oven, use anoven thermometer.
    TIMER
    Essential. Use one.
    WHISK
    Choose a small whisk and a large balloon whisk, both made from medium-gauge wire. For whisking yeast and water together or making an egg wash, use the small whisk. Use the larger whisk to make the filling for sticky buns, pecan rolls, or the glaze for maple pecan scones.
    WIRE RACKS
    All of our baked goods are cooled on cooling racks when they first come out of the oven. Have at least two wire racks on hand. A collapsible multilevel rack is a real space saver and can allow four trays to be cooled at once. They can be found at many kitchenware stores or through mail order (see Source List ).
    WORK SURFACE
    At the Cheese Board, we work at long butcher-block tables. When we roll out sticky bun dough, it almost covers the entire surface. A large, flat surface, such as a sturdy wooden board, is essential for kneading and rolling out dough. Put a damp towel under the board to keep it from sliding.
    ZESTER
    This tool is designed to pare off only the top, colored layer of citrus skin and release its essential oils, leaving the bitter white pith behind.
    INGREDIENTS
    Your final product is only as good as your ingredients. Use the freshest dairy products, flours, in-season produce, and leavenings. Check the dates on products and shop at a reliable store that rotates its stock frequently.
    BAKING SODA ANDBAKING POWDER
    Remember to check the expiration dates on containers of these two essential leavening ingredients, since they lose potency over time, and always sift them before using in a recipe. At the store we use aluminum-free baking powder.
    BUTTER
    We use only unsalted (often called “sweet”) butter. Salt is used to extend the shelf life of butter; by using unsalted butter, the rich, natural flavor of the butter comes through in whatever you are baking. An additional reason for using unsalted butter is that you have more control over the saltiness in any recipe. Don’t be completely put off by salted butters, though; a warm baguette with a pat of soft, lightly salted butter is the ultimate comfort food. Different brands of butter have subtle flavor differences and varying fat content. Experiment with various types to see which you like the best.
    CARAMEL COLOR
    This is used to impart a deep chocolate-brown color to pumpernickel rye bread. Caramel color may be hard to find at your local store, but it can be ordered (see Source List ). It does not add flavor to the finished bread, so if color isn’t an issue for you, go ahead and make the bread without it.
    CHEESE
    At the Cheese Board, any cheese we need or feel inspired to use is only a step away. For cheese breads and pizzas, have these basic cheeses on hand: sharp Cheddar, Gruyère, sheep’s-milk Feta, and the Italian contingent—Mozzarella, Asiago, Provolone, Parmigiano, and Ricotta. Of course, you can substitute any cheese that works for your palate.

    CHOCOLATE
    The bakers at the Cheese Board always use the richest bittersweet or semisweet chocolate and unprocessed cocoa powder. In sweets where chocolate is a major flavor, it is important to use the best you can find. We use a Belgian chocolate made by Callebaut. Other good choices are Schokinag from Germany, and Berkeley’s own Scharffen Berger. We order our chocolate in ten-pound bars and break it up with a hammer and chisel, using the large, uneven chunks for Chocolate Things . In our muffins, we use chips of the same high-quality chocolate. See instructions on melting chocolate in a double boiler .
    CITRUS ZEST
    The white part just under the skin of citrus fruits is very