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occasionally, until the leek is softened, about 5 minutes.
    Stir in the vegetable stock, sweet potato, apples, and wine. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer until the vegetables are very tender, about 25 minutes.
    In several batches, purée the soup in a blender until smooth. Return the soup to the pan and reheat to serving temperature. Season to taste.
    Garnish each serving with a sprinkling of pecans and pomegranate seeds.
advance preparation
This soup will keep for up to 3 days in a covered container in the refrigerator. Store the nuts for up to 3 weeks in an airtight container at room temperature.
    TIPS
    Curry powder, a mixture of many herbs and spices, is blended in literally thousands of versions according to the region of India, traditions, and the tastes of the cook. Standard curry powders are quite mild; imported brands, often called Madras, are usually hotter. To eliminate the raw taste of curry powder, sauté it in butter or oil rather than simply adding it to a dish. Since curry powder quickly loses its pungency, purchase it in small quantities, and store airtight in a dark, dry place for up to 3 months.
    Pomegranates yield bright red, sweet, tart, and edible seeds and are available from October through December. They can be refrigerated for up to 2 months. To use, cut the fruit in half and pry out the seeds, removing any light-colored membrane that adheres. To simplify the task and avoid splashes of the juice, submerge each half in a bowl of cold water and tear the flesh apart under water. The seeds will drop to the bottom and the pulp will float. Remove the pulp with a slotted spoon and strain the seeds.
    In eating we experience a certain special and indefinable well-being.
    —Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

sweet potato–ancho bisque with apple–pecan salsa and roasted red pepper cream
    A dark reddish-brown chili with an earthy sweet flavor and mild heat, anchos are one of the most widely used dried chilies. They are made from the fresh heart-shaped poblano chilies that grow throughout central Mexico. Adjust the amount of jalapeño in the salsa to make the assertiveness of the composed dish just right for you.
    Makes 8 cups (8 servings)
soup
    2 ancho chilies (see Tips)
    2 tablespoons olive oil
    ½ cup coarsely chopped onion
    ½ cup coarsely chopped carrot
    ¼ cup coarsely chopped celery
    6 cups vegetable stock
    ½ cup dry red wine (optional)
    1 large orange-fleshed sweet potato (about 12 ounces), peeled and cut into ½-inch chunks (about 2¼ cups)
    1 large russet potato (about 12 ounces), peeled and cut into ½-inch chunks (about 2¼ cups)
salsa
    1 cup finely diced Granny Smith apple at room temperature
    ¼ cup toasted chopped pecans
    2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
    1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro
    1 teaspoon minced fresh red jalapeño chili, or to taste
cream
    ½ cup coarsely chopped jarred roasted red bell pepper
    ¼ cup sour cream or crème fraîche
    ˜ milk, as needed
    ˜ salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
to complete the recipe
    1 cup milk
    ½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste
    ˜ salt to taste
to make the soup
Rinse the ancho chilies; put them in a small bowl and cover with hot water (just below the boiling point). Soak until softened, about 20 minutes.
    Meanwhile, heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery; cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain the chilies; remove the stems, rinse to remove the seeds, and coarsely chop.
    Stir in the vegetable stock, wine (if using), potatoes, and chilies. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer until the potatoes are very tender, about 10 minutes.
to make the salsa
Stir together all the ingredients in a medium bowl; adjust the seasoning to taste.
to make the cream
Purée the bell pepper and sour cream in a blender; if necessary, stir in milk so the mixture has a cake-batter consistency. Season to