So I flick my head toward a booth on our right. âHow âbout that one?â
âGood choice,â she says, tossing her purse in first. âIâve sat here with your mom before.â
The bench is low and the table rises to just under Grandmaâs chin. She rests her arms on the surface. Kleenex pokes out from one of her red sleeves. Grandma points out some of the other booths sheâs sat in; more than half. We wait for service.
Her hands have held on to an elegant toughness. Apart from the odd liver spot or new freckle, they donât look all that different than when I was a kid. Theyâre strong, womanly hands. They arenât delicate. These are hands acquainted with work. Her nails are strong, durable. She has them all trimmed the same length, no chips or broken edges. She wears a thin bracelet on her left wrist and two rings on the same finger â her engagement and wedding rings, I assume. I donât recall ever seeing her without these rings. It appears they have become part of her finger, embedded into the skin like the bark of an old tree.
Sheâs helping me navigate my one-page laminated menu, pointing out options. âTheir hot and sour soup is delicious,â sheâs saying. âItâs just so different.â
âI think Iâll get a bowl of that.â
âWhat else?â she says.
We each decide on some soup and to split a couple of meat dishes.
âNow, what else?â
âOh, mmm,â I mumble. âHmmm.â
âMaybe we should get some spring rolls.â
âRight,â I say. âI always enjoy a good roll, be it egg or spring.â
âPardon?â
âOh, just that I like spring rolls, Grandma.â
âGood. And what about some fried wontons? I love those little wontons.â Weâve just stacked our menus and, I thought, finished compiling our order. âI can never resist those crisp little wontons.â
âWho can?â I say. Iâm not sure Iâve ever tasted a wonton before. They sound vaguely familiar.
As we wait for our food, two more duos arrive for lunch. They seem much less interested in the whole dining-out experience and more concerned with basic feeding. Neither table needs menus. Both order instantly. Two men in pastel-coloured golf shirts with black phones fastened to their black belts sit in the booth directly in front of us. They sit silently, waiting for their noodles, and unholster their phones.
I think one of the reasons Grandma fancies this place is not only the authentic fare but also the service. A short, slim Vietnamese lady in plastic sandals, who I presume is the owner, buzzes around all three tables. She moves purposefully, ceaselessly. The second I extract an inch of water, the plastic pitcher attached to her arm is spilling more icy liquid into my glass. She smiles and nods as she does it, as if her wide grin functions symbiotically with the flow of water. Her eyes watch me, not the glass. Itâs a strange dynamic, and my instinct is to simply mimic her behaviour. I grin and nod back. We grin and nod together, thanking each other. I think Iâve said thank you forty or so times already.
âThank you for the water,â Iâm saying again. âItâs very good water. Thank you.â
For some reason, as I yammer on, I find the palms of my hands coming together and touching my chest like Iâm praying. Thankfully, I am able to resist muttering my last florid expression of gratitude without adding a discernible Vietnamese accent.
Grandmaâs knowledge of Vietnamese food is reliable, especially considering she came to it so late in life. She tells me she didnât start eating it until she was in her eighties. She always loved North Americanâstyle Chinese food but now prefers both Vietnamese and Cambodian.
Our dishes arrive. As declared, the soup is pleasantly hot and sour. The chalky broth is thick, like itâs holding a very