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and other robust spices, then browned and simmered in a barbecue sauce, which conveniently cooks along with them. When done, the short ribs are fork-tender and bursting with smoky, sweet, and tart flavors. An added bonus is that these ribs improve in flavor when made in advance and reheated.

    Serves 6

    COST : Inexpensive

    PREP TIME : 30 minutes for prepping the ribs and barbecue sauce

    START-TO-FINISH TIME : 2 hours, 30 minutes, plus 6 hours or over-night to marinate the ribs

    Ribs
    4½ lb/2 kg beef short ribs (10 to 12 ribs, depending on the size)
    1½ tbsp light brown sugar
    1 tbsp ground cumin
    1 tbsp smoked paprika (see market note)
    1½ tsp kosher salt
    1½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
    ½ tsp cayenne pepper
    ¼ tsp ground cinnamon

    Quick Pan Barbecue Sauce
    1½ cups/420 g ketchup/tomato sauce
    1 cup/200 g light brown sugar
    ½ cup/120 ml red wine vinegar
    ¼ cup/60 ml Worcestershire sauce
    2½ tbsp dry mustard/mustard powder, such as Coleman’s
    2 tsp smoked paprika
    2 tsp hot sauce
    1½ tsp kosher salt
    1½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

    Olive oil for sautéing
    2 tbsp minced flat-leaf parsley, for garnish (optional)

    FOR THE RIBS:
    1. Pat the ribs dry with paper towels/absorbent paper. Mix the brown sugar, cumin, paprika, salt, pepper, cayenne, and cinnamon in a small bowl and rub on all sides of the ribs. Place the ribs on a large plate, cover with plastic wrap/cling film, and refrigerate for 6 hours or overnight.

    2. Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C/gas 4.

    FOR THE SAUCE:
    1. Use a large, heavy, flameproof roasting pan/tray that will hold the ribs comfortably in a single layer. Add ketchup/tomato sauce, brown sugar, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, paprika, hot sauce, salt, pepper, and ½ cup/120 ml water to the pan and whisk until well blended.

    2. Coat a large, heavy frying pan lightly with olive oil and place over medium heat. When hot, sear the ribs on all sides until lightly browned, watching carefully so that their coating does not burn. Place the ribs in the roasting pan/tray and turn to coat well with sauce. Place the pan over 1 to 2 burners on high heat and bring the mixture to a bubbling simmer. Remove and cover the pan tightly with a double thickness of foil. Roast until the ribs are fork-tender, for 1½ to 2 hours or longer.

    3. Remove the ribs from the oven and skim off and discard all the fat (there will be a lot) from the pan. (Ribs can be prepared 1 day ahead; cool them and the sauce to room temperature, but do not skim off fat if making in advance. Remove the ribs to a separate container. Cover and refrig-erate the ribs and the sauce separately. When chilled, the fat in the sauce will congeal and can be removed and discarded easily. To reheat, return the ribs to the pan with the sauce, cover with foil, and place in a 350°F/180°C/gas 4 preheated oven until hot, for 20 to 30 minutes.)

    4. Serve the ribs coated with some sauce and sprinkled with parsley, if desired. Pass any extra sauce in a bowl.

    SIDES : Best-Ever Mashed Potatoes Blue Cheese variation and a green salad would make tempting accompaniments.

    LEFTOVER TIP : These short ribs freeze very well so you can save any leftovers for up to 1 month.

    MARKET NOTE : Spanish smoked paprika, called pimenton, is available in gourmet food stores and in some groceries, or you can order it online from Penzeys at www.penzeys.com. I used the sweet (dulce) style.



As a young, fledging cook, I often turned to my Southern family’s recipes for inspiration, but when it came to pork, I had to look elsewhere. The simple fact is that today’s pork is quite different from the meat that was available to an older generation of cooks.
    First, it is bred to be leaner, and this requires some significant adaptations to ensure a moist, succulent roast. In the recipes that follow you will be urged to baste frequently so that the meat does not dry out. Second, today’s pork does not need to be cooked