1920s was such a competitive business compared to what their grandmothers had experienced, warned one beauty guide, that they had to be visibly charismatic: âPeople who pass us on the street canât know that weâre clever and charming unless we look it.â
Such adviceâostensibly meant to improve peopleâs livesâmust have made even reasonably confident people uneasy. Susman counted the words that appeared most frequently in the personality-driven advice manuals of the early twentieth century and compared them to the character guides of the nineteenth century. The earlier guides emphasized attributes that anyone could work on improving, described by words like
Citizenship
Duty
Work
Golden deeds
Honor
Reputation
Morals
Manners
Integrity
But the new guides celebrated qualities that wereâno matter how easy Dale Carnegie made it soundâtrickier to acquire. Either you embodied these qualities or you didnât:
Magnetic
Fascinating
Stunning
Attractive
Glowing
Dominant
Forceful
Energetic
It was no coincidence that in the 1920s and the 1930s,Americans became obsessed with movie stars. Who better than a matinee idol to model personal magnetism?
Americans also received advice on self-presentationâwhether they liked it or notâfrom the advertising industry. While early print ads were straightforward product announcements (â EATONâS HIGHLAND LINEN: THE FRESHEST AND CLEANEST WRITING PAPER â), the new personality-driven ads cast consumers as performers with stage fright from which only the advertiserâs product might rescue them. These ads focused obsessively on the hostile glare of the public spotlight. â ALL AROUND YOU PEOPLE ARE JUDGING YOU SILENTLY ,â warned a 1922 ad for Woodburyâs soap. â CRITICAL EYES ARE SIZING YOU UP RIGHT NOW ,â advised the Williams Shaving Cream company.
Madison Avenue spoke directly to the anxieties of male salesmen and middle managers. In one ad for Dr. Westâs toothbrushes, a prosperous-looking fellow sat behind a desk, his arm cocked confidently behind his hip, asking whether youâve â EVER TRIED SELLING
YOURSELF
TO YOU? A FAVORABLE FIRST IMPRESSION IS THE GREATEST SINGLE FACTOR IN BUSINESS OR SOCIAL SUCCESS .â The Williams Shaving Cream ad featured a slick-haired, mustachioed man urging readers to â LET YOUR FACE REFLECT CONFIDENCE, NOT WORRY! ITâS THE âLOOKâ OF YOU BY WHICH YOU ARE JUDGED MOST OFTEN .â
Other ads reminded women that their success in the dating gamedepended not only on looks but also on personality. In 1921 a Woodburyâs soap ad showed a crestfallen young woman, home alone after a disappointing evening out. She had âlonged to be successful, gay, triumphant,â the text sympathized. But without the help of the right soap, the woman was a social failure.
Ten years later, Lux laundry detergent ran a print ad featuring a plaintive letter written to Dorothy Dix, the Dear Abby of her day. âDear Miss Dix,â read the letter, âHow can I make myself more popular? I am fairly pretty and not a dumbbell, but I am so timid and self-conscious with people. Iâm always sure theyâre not going to like me.⦠âJoan G.â
Miss Dixâs answer came back clear and firm. If only Joan would use Lux detergent on her lingerie, curtains, and sofa cushions, she would soon gain a âdeep, sure, inner conviction of being charming.â
This portrayal of courtship as a high-stakes performance reflected the bold new mores of the Culture of Personality. Under the restrictive (in some cases repressive) social codes of the Culture of Character,both genders displayed some reserve when it came to the mating dance. Women who were too loud or made inappropriate eye contact with strangers were considered brazen. Upper-class women had more license to speak than did their lower-class counterparts, and indeed were judged partly on their