carrot, coarsely chopped
1 medium celery rib, coarsely chopped
2 dried bay leaves
5 whole black peppercorns
Salt
1. Preheat the oven to 450°F.
2. Toss the chicken backs and wings with the oil in a very large metal roasting pan. Roast for 20 minutes. Turn the chicken over and continue roasting until the chicken is well browned, about 15 minutes more.
3. Transfer the chicken to a large pot. Drain off the fat from the roasting pan and place the pan over medium heat. When the pan is sizzling, pour in water and bring to a boil, scraping up the browned bits in the pan with a wooden spoon. Pour into the pot. Add the onion, carrot, and celery. Add enough cold water to cover the mixture by 1 inch.
4. Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off the foam that rises to the surface. Add the bay leaves and peppercorns. Reduce the heat to low. Simmer, uncovered, until the stock is well flavored, at least 2 and up to 4 hours.
5. Strain the stock through a large sieve into a large bowl: discard the solids. Let the stock cool until tepid. (If you want to speed this along, place the bowl in a large pan and surround the bowl with ice water. Skim off any yellow that that rises to the surface. Use immediately, or cool, cover, and refrigerate. (The stock can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen in airtight containers for up to 3 months.)
Pavese Soup
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
I have no idea why this soup is named after Pavia, a town in Northern Italy. Are they known for eggs? I wonder, because this soup was originally served with a poached egg, although now we serve it with a fried egg, which is much easier. This is the kind of meal that Patsy would make after a long night at the restaurant, with ingredients he had on hand. This soup is best cooked with homemade broth.
4 thick-cut (½-inch) slices Italian bread, toasted
6 cups Chicken Stock or reduced-sodium store-bought chicken broth
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil (not extra-virgin)
4 large eggs
4 tablespoons Tomato Sauce
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for sprinkling
Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for sprinkling
1. Place a slice of bread in each soup bowl.
2. Bring the stock to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to low and keep warm.
3. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Working in batches, crack the eggs into the skillet and cook, spooning the oil over the whites, just until the whites are set, about 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer each egg to a bowl and place on the bread.
4. For each serving, ladle about 1½ cups of stock around the egg-topped bread. Dot 1 tablespoon of tomato sauce over the egg. Sprinkle with the parsley and grated cheese. Serve hot.
Beef Braciole
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Every Sunday, countless Italian American families serve beef braciole simmered in tomato sauce, sometimes adding sausage and meatballs to the pot. Back when we were closed on Mondays, we followed that tradition, just on a different day of the week. There is a marvelous marriage of flavors between the beef rolls and tomato sauce. At the restaurant, we serve very large braciole, and usually with rigatoni. Ever since my sister Tina was a little girl, these beef rolls have been her favorite meal.
STUFFING
4 slices firm white sandwich bread, torn into bite-size pieces
1 pound ground beef sirloin
1 large egg plus 1 large egg yolk, beaten together
⅓ cup seedless raisins
⅓ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about 1½ ounces)
¼ cup pine nuts
1 large garlic clove, minced
One 1¼-pound boneless top round beef roast (see Note), trimmed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 large fresh basil leaves
½ cup all-purpose flour, for dredging
1 cup olive oil
6 cups Tomato Sauce
¼ cup dry white wine
1 pound rigatoni
Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for serving
1. To make the stuffing: Soak the bread with about 1 cup cold water