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in a Cullender to cool: When you use them, put them into a Pan with a little Butter, and fry them as yellow as Gold, or you may set them in the Mouth of an Oven. These are proper to garnish a boil’d Pudding, or a fricassy of Chickens, for the first Course, or you may serve them in little Dishes or Plates for the second Course.
Battalia Pie
    —from Susannah Carter, The Frugal Housewife (1772). ‘Battalia’ or ‘batalia’ is from the French béatilles , from Latin beatillae , meaning small, blessed objects.
    Take 4 small chickens and squab pigeons, four sucking rabbits, cut them into pieces and season them with savoury spice, lay them in a pie with 4 sweetbreads sliced, as many sheep’s tongues and shivered palates, 2 pair of lamb’s stones, 20 or 30 cockscombs, with savoury balls and oysters; lay on butter and lose the pie with a lear [gravy].
A Fricasey of Lamb-Stones and Sweetbreads
    —from Hannah Glasse, The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy (1774)
    Have some lamb-stones blanched, parboiled and sliced, and flour 2 or 3 sweetbreads; if very thick cut them into 2, the yolks of 6 hard eggs whole; a few pistachio nut kernels, and a few large oysters: fry them all of a fine brown, then pour out all the butter, and add a pint of drawn gravy, the lamb-stones, some asparagus topsabout an inch long, some grated nutmeg, a little pepper and salt, 2 shallots shred small, and a glass of white wine. Stew all together for 10 minutes, then add the yolks of 6 eggs beat very fine, with a little white wine, and a little beaten mace; stir altogether till it is of a fine thickness, then dish it up. Garnish with lemon.
Lamb’s Head and Pluck
    —from William Kitchener, Apicius Redivivus (1817)
    Clean and wash a lamb’s head well, and boil it an hour and a half: take it up, and rub it over with a paste brush dipped in egg well beaten; strew over it a little pepper and salt, and some fine bread crumbs: lay it in a dish before the fire, or in a Dutch oven to brown: when it begins to get dry, put some melted butter on it with a paste brush: mince the heart, liver and the tongue very fine; put them into a stewpan with a little of the liquor the head was boiled in, and an ounce of butter, well mixed with a tablespoonful of flour, a little pepper and salt: set it on a slow fire for ten minutes. Squeeze the juice of half a lemon into a dish, lay in the mince, with the head upon it, and garnish it with relishing rashers of bacon.
Pig’s Pettitoes (trotters)
    —from Mrs Beeton’s Book of Household Management (London, 1861)
    Ingredients: A thin slice of bacon, 1 onion, 1 blade of mace, 6 peppercorns, 3 or 4 sprigs of thyme, 1 pint of gravy, pepper and salt to taste, thickening of butter and flour.
    Mode: Put the liver, heart and pettitoes into a stewpan with the bacon, mace, peppercorns, thyme, onion and gravy, and simmer these gently for ¼ hour; then take out the heart and liver and mince them very fine. Keep stewing the feet until quite tender, which will be in 20 minutes to ½ hour, reckoning from the time that they boiled up first; then put back the minced liver, thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour, season with pepperand salt, and over a gentle fire for 5 minutes, occasionally stirring the contents. Dish the mince, split the feet, and pour the gravy in the middle.
Turkey Giblets with Turnips
    —from the Marquis de Courchamps, in Alexandre Dumas’ Dictionary of Cuisine (Paris, 1871)
    Clean the wings, gizzards, feet and neck, discarding the head; place in a large pan on the heat with a good piece of butter kneaded with flour; sauté the offal for 7 to 8 minutes; add hot stock, being careful not to blend it into your roux too quickly; add in a bouquet of parsley, thyme, bay leaf, basil and sage, together with 2 onions stuck with cloves, boil for a quarter of an hour and then add 6 Fresneuse turnips, 4 large slices of carrot, 6 purple potatoes, a Jerusalem artichoke and a whole stalk of celery; do not turn your vegetables,