factor to the sausage maker, this casing may be of interest. However, flat collagen casings are not as strong as synthetic fibrous casings, and they must be stuffed more gently. If you intend to use these casings, please read the recommendations in the next paragraph regarding casing diameter and length. These size recommendations apply to flat collagen casings as well as to synthetic fibrous casings.
SYNTHETIC FIBROUS CASING
Synthetic fibrous casings are very useful for large-diameter snack sausages or lunchmeat sausages. These casings are not edible, but they are very strong, and they will not tear while they are being stuffed. Fibrous casings are available in diameters ranging from 1½ inches (38 mm) to over 4¾ inches (120 mm). If fibrous casings are used, it is best for the beginner to use casings of no more than about 2½ inches (63 mm) in diameter, and no more than 12 inches (30 cm) long. This size is easier to process, and the cooking time will be faster than it is for casings with larger diameters. In this book, this size is usually recommended for the sausages that are stuffed in fibrous casings. To make them supple, synthetic fibrous casings are soaked in warm water before stuffing. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If the instructions are not available, soak them in warm water for 20 or 30 minutes before use. Be sure to flood the inside with water.
Depending on the vendor, sometimes the fibrous casings are not closed on the bottom, or sometimes they are sold in 24-inch (60 cm) lengths only, and need to be cut in half. If the casings are not closed on the bottom, or if they need to be cut, common twine may be used to close them. However, a great deal of pressure is put on the bottom closure when the sausage is being stuffed. Consequently, if it is tied with twine, the very strong butterfly tie (also called butterfly knot) should be used. The top portion of the photograph demonstrates how to close the end of a synthetic fibrous casing with the butterfly tie:
• Cut a length of twine—about 5 inches (13 cm) long.
• Fold the end of the casing in zigzag-like pleats. (It is best to use something like a clothespin or a paper clamp to hold the pleats in the folded position.)
• Tie the end of the casing with a common square knot about ¾ inch (2 cm) from the end.
• Bring the ends of the twine around the bottom of the casing, and tie another square knot in such a way that the ends of the casing flare (“butterfly”) to the left and right.
Another way to close a casing on the bottom is to use an aluminum casing clip. Please see the Casing clips section of this chapter (below).
Fibrous casings are sold in two colors: clear and mahogany. The “clear” casings are actually translucent and resemble very strong wax paper. They acquire a beautiful reddish-brown color when they are smoked. However, if the sausage is not smoked, the clear casing looks pale and anemic. The mahogany-colored casing, on the other hand, looks good no matter how the sausage is processed.
Fibrous casings do have one small negative point: They are not waterproof, although they are water resistant and remain strong when wet. Instructions on cooking sausage in Chapter 6 describe how this minor negative point can be addressed.
MUSLIN CASING
Finally, you may make casings of muslin. Such casings may sometimes be used in place of synthetic fibrous casings, and they are traditionally used for German liver sausages such as Braunschweiger, liverwurst, and some salami-like sausages. Because the muslin absorbs moisture readily, it is best that they not be used for steamed or poached sausage. Hot smoked sausages are the best use for muslin casings.
Tear—do not cut—a strip of muslin 8 inches (20 cm) wide and about 12 inches (30 cm) long. (To the extent possible, the material should be torn rather than cut; tearing reduces the amount of cloth fibers that will get into the sausage.) Fold the strip in half lengthwise. The folded cloth will