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and sweet and spicy cucumbers
    Scallion pancakes are a great appetizer on their own or as a side served alongside a dish such as moo-shu pork. Once you get into the swing of things, you’ll realize how easy these pancakes are to make. You can prepare a batch or two and freeze them for later use, but there is nothing better than eating these hot from the skillet. Be sure to start marinating the cucumbers the day before so the flavor has time to develop.
       
    MAKES 8 SERVINGS
    •   To prepare the cucumbers, place them in a small bowl and toss with 2 teaspoons of the salt so the slices release excess moisture. After about 5 minutes, lightly rinse the cucumbers, then pat dry with paper towels.
    •   In a medium nonreactive bowl, combine the remaining salt, vinegar, sugar, water, and ginger. Add the cucumbers to the marinade and gently toss. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours or overnight. The flavor gets better after the second day. They will keep for 5 to 7 days.
    •   To prepare the crème fraîche sauce, in a small bowl, combine the crème fraîche, lemon juice and zest, and salt. Stir until smooth.
    •   To prepare the pancakes, in a large bowl, combine the flour and salt. Add the hot water and mix well with a wooden spoon until incorporated. Bring the dough together and knead for a few minutes; if the dough is still sticky, add a little more flour. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a damp towel, and let rest for 30 minutes.
SWEET AND SPICY CUCUMBERS
1 English cucumber, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices
3 teaspoons salt, divided
¼ cup rice wine vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
⅔ cup water
3 thin slices unpeeled ginger
LEMON CRÈME FRAÎCHE SAUCE
1½ cups crème fraîche, or sour cream thinned with ¼ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon lemon zest
½ teaspoon salt
SCALLION PANCAKES
2 cups all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon salt
⅔ cup hot water
4 teaspoons sesame oil or vegetable oil, divided
1 teaspoon salt, divided
½ cup finely chopped green onions, divided
¼ cup vegetable oil, for cooking
1 cup smoked salmon, broken into 1-inch pieces
Pickled ginger, for garnish (optional)
    •   Preheat the oven to 225°F.
    •   Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Cut into 4 equal pieces. Place a moist towel over the 3 pieces you are not working with. Roll out each piece into a 6-inch rectangle about ¼ inch thick. Rub the top lightly with 1 teaspoon sesame oil, then sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and 2 tablespoons green onions. Starting at one end, roll up the dough like a cinnamon roll. Starting at one end of the rolled log, coil it up lengthwise like a snail shell. Set aside and cover with a moist towel. Repeat with the other 3 pieces of dough.
    •   On a lightly floured surface, using a rolling pin, carefully roll out each dough coil to form a ¼- to ½-inch-thick pancake. Heat 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil in a 10- or 12-inch cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add a pancake and cook until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the pan and cut into 8 wedges. Transfer to a baking sheet in the preheated oven to keep warm. Repeat with the rest of the dough.
    •   To serve, assemble the pancakes by placing 2 teaspoons crème fraîche sauce, a piece of salmon, 1 or 2 cucumber slices, and a slice of pickled ginger atop each pancake wedge.

sizzling shrimp
    Always keep a bag of frozen shrimp in your freezer, available to serve as a last-minute appetizer. They don’t take long to thaw, and cooking them takes only 5 minutes. Besar is a spice blend from the United Arab Emirates—it is a combination of cinnamon, Tellicherry pepper, cumin, coriander, fennel, turmeric, and chili flakes; it pairs well with just about any savory dish. These spicy-sweet cocktail shrimp disappear quickly. Serve directly from the skillet.
       
    MAKES 4 SERVINGS
    •   Melt the butter in a