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the caviar the day it's made, so if I'm serving 4 people or fewer, I halve the recipe to avoid having leftovers.
2
firm eggplants, each about 1½ pounds
2
garlic cloves, split, germ removed, and minced
2
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
1
small onion, finely chopped, rinsed, and patted dry
1-2
tablespoons finely shredded fresh basil
1-2
tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
1
teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme
Pinch of piment d'Espelette (see Sources [>] ) or cayenne
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2
medium tomatoes, peeled (optional), seeded, and finely chopped
    Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with foil.
    Rinse and dry the eggplants and prick them all over with a fork, or stab them in a few places with the point of a small knife. Put the eggplants on the foil-lined baking sheet and roast them for 45 minutes to an hour, until they're soft and shriveled. Remove them from the oven and leave them on the baking sheet until they're cool enough to handle (or until they reach room temperature).
    Slit the eggplants open and scrape the soft flesh into a bowl; discard the skin. Add the garlic and olive oil. Using a fork, stir and press the eggplant until you have a chunky puree. If you like smooth eggplant caviar, you can work the puree a little more; my preference is for one that's got an uneven texture. Add the zest, most of the lemon juice, the onion, and the herbs, and season with the piment d'Espelette or cayenne and salt and pepper. Then taste and see if you want to add more of anything or everything.
(At this point, you can press a piece of plastic against the surface of the eggplant caviar and chill it for a few hours. Right before serving, taste and re-season if necessary.)
    Fold in the chopped tomatoes, if you like, and transfer to a serving bowl.
     
    MAKES 3½ TO 4 CUPS OR 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
     
    SERVING
My favorite way to enjoy eggplant caviar is to spread it on wedges of toasted country bread, but it's good on pita or scooped up with crackers, and it makes a great addition to sandwiches—try it with chicken, beef, or grilled vegetables (it's especially delicious with Roasted Peppers, [>] ).
     
    STORING
You can keep the eggplant caviar tightly covered in the refrigerator overnight—make sure to stir any liquid that accumulates back into the puree—but it's really best the day it's made.
     
    BONNE IDÉE
Remove the germ from another 1 or 2 garlic cloves and slice them paper-thin. Using a sharp paring knife, poke about 10 slender slashes into each eggplant and work the garlic slivers into them before roasting.

Tzatziki
    P ARIS'S 5 TH ARRONDISSEMENT, PART OF WHICH is the Latin Quarter, is home to the Sorbonne, the Panthéon, the student bookstores along the boulevard Saint-Michel, and a surprising number of shops offering Greek specialties. But, in fact, Greek pastries, olives, stuffed grape leaves, tuna-filled peppers ( [>] ), tarama (or taramasalata), and this fresh cucumber-yogurt mix can be found in most of the outdoor markets in the city, something that surprised me when I first started shopping in Paris.
    A yogurt-based blend (thick Greek yogurt is best here) of cucumbers, fresh herbs, lemon juice, garlic, and a little olive oil, tzatziki is a recipe that tastes rich but is actually very low in calories—not that the French would favor it for this reason. Creamy and versatile, it can be used as a dip for crudités, a first layer for tartines (top with thinly sliced radishes and sprinkle with fleur de sel), or a dressing for a tomato salad.
    BE PREPARED: If you're not using Greek yogurt, you'll need to drain the yogurt for about 4 hours.
2
cups yogurt, preferably Greek (it can be nonfat)
1
cup finely cubed seedless cucumber
Salt
2
tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1
tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2-3
garlic cloves, split, germ removed, and minced
2
tablespoons minced fresh dill
2
tablespoons minced fresh mint
Freshly ground