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late nights.”
    The evening was a success. Conscious of their terse exchange earlier in the day, each had made a special effort. Kerry was pleased with the result.
    She raised her glass, feeling a sudden exhilaration. “To our leopard! May we find the biggest, meanest spotted cat in the park asleep in an old tree at the roadside.”
    They touched glasses. Chad Lindsay smiled. “I’ll drink to that .”
    ***
    In the morning when they had finished breakfast Kerry tried to pay the hotel bill. Chad refused to take her money.
    “But you paid for the first night. It’s my turn.”
    “My treat,” he said, pushing her hand away like an arrogant nobleman refusing a serf’s gift.
    “Chad, no – you paying for the accommodation in the parks and the petrol is more than generous.” She held out the cash again but still he would not take it.
    “Kerry, I’m not short of a few bucks,” he said.
    She begged him. “We started this as two independent people. Don’t you see that by paying for everything you’re placing me under an obligation to you? I don’t want that.”
    But his mind was made up and he stubbornly refused to budge.
    “You’re as free as you ever were . . . Besides,” he added with a grin and a wink, “I got a better exchange rate than you.”
    Kerry found it impossible to bring Chad’s mind back to her grievance. What a stubborn, generous man, she thought.
    They left town, heading north on the road signposted Hwange and Victoria Falls.
    They passed several Matabele villages, round huts with thatched roofs, the ground between the huts smooth mud. The villagers smiled and seemed remarkably clean, considering the conditions under which they lived. Twice they were held up at police roadblocks. The officers were well-mannered; they asked to see Chad’s licence and made a perfunctory search of the car’s boot.
    Mile after mile, tree after tree. It was the hottest day so far.
    The look of the country changed. Baobabs were back. An impala buck with fine horns led three does through the trees. Kerry felt a new excitement. At last they were nearing the game country.
    On a hilltop outside Hwange town they stopped for a beer and lunch at the aptly named Baobab Hotel. Then there was time for some shopping before they entered the reserve. As luck would have it they got the last loaf of bread. There was no fresh milk, but Kerry refused to allow herself to become flustered; they could get by on long-life.
    ***
    Inside the national park Chad headed straight for camp and soon found their lodge. On her bedroom wall Kerry spied the two biggest spiders she had ever seen. She turned on her heels but hesitated, remembering Chad’s cruel taunt: “. . . if you’re going to become hysterical over everything that moves.” Well, he could think what he liked, but the spiders had to go.
    She found him outside where the attendant was helping him unload the bags and cases from the car.
    “Chad, I can cope in most situations,” she said, determined to keep tight control of her emotions. “My one phobia is spiders. There are two heavyweights on my bedroom wall. Will you please get rid of them and check over the rest of the lodge?”
    The South African gave her a slow penetrating look. She thought, here it comes, some wisecrack about the weakness or silly aversions of women. Instead, to her surprise, he nodded and handed her the binoculars.
    “Walk to that ridge.” He pointed. “Enjoy the view. ” He glanced at the lodge. “I did warn you: no Five Star hotels this trip.”
    “Don’t take it personally,” she said. “I’m happy to be here. It’s just that . . . I can’t sleep if there are beasties or crawlers in my room. I don’t like unwelcome guests.” As soon as she said it Kerry could have bitten off her tongue.
    Chad Lindsay threw back his head and laughed.
    “Yes, you made that perfectly clear.” There was merriment in his eyes. He turned quickly to the African and said something in Zulu and the two men headed