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as a path right next to it. Next in line is another one inch strip that is used to plant your garden items. In all there are three rows.
    Year Two – Unlike with year one, the third section is the one used for the trench. The same steps are used to create the compost. Your garden is planted in the second row and the first row is now the walking space.
    Year Three – The section that was used for the trench in year one and the walking path in year two now becomes the planting area, which should be rich because the compost should be fully decomposed. The second space is now the trench and the third space is now for walking.

M ORE A DVANCED C OMPOSTING S UPPLIES
    There are other different methods of composting that you can use that require certain equipment. Some equipment is cheap, while others are more on the expensive end. First on the list are holding units, which are bins that are used to throw your kitchen scraps into.
    Little maintenance is needed with most models and they’re small enough to be used on of apartment and condo balconies. You should use non-wood materials for your compost in holding units. Just throw in the scraps as you get them, instead of trashing them.
    Holding bins are easy to use, but require time to generate ready compost. They don’t require you to turn them at all, which is why the process is a lot slower – sometimes taking as long as six months to two years. The process will work much faster if you add earth worms to your compost bins!
    Portable units can be purchased that can be turned and aerated. They can be moved about easily. These usually come in the form of plastic, wire fencing / hardware cloth, wood with wire frames or snow fencing.
    You can try increasing the aeration of the compost in the holding units by poking holes into the soil and placing ventilating stacks in the center. It will look like pipes sticking out of the middle of the dirt which will allow oxygen into the soil, further decomposing the organic matter.
    You will have to place the pipes down before pouring in the compost. The pipes can be made out of wire mesh or even grouped together sticks that are tied together loosely. If you decide to use PVC pipes, make sure that they are about an inch in diameter or bigger. Drill holes throughout the sides of the pipes to give more aeration to your pile.
    Some people place down a plastic aeration mat or wooden pallet before dumping in the compost. Since you will be continually placing in new organics into your compost, the finished compost will usually be found near the bottom of the pile.
    When needed, you can remove the compost at the bottom of the heap for your garden. Some holding bins have removable doors at the front or bottom, so that this can be easily done. If you want, you can remove the completed compost and place it in a separate bag.
    Keep in mind that holding units that are heavier or permanent and have no removable doors will require more effort to create the compost. You will have to remove the finished compost to another container. It’s a good idea to have about three of these bins – one could be for finished compost, another for maturing compost and the third for fresh compost.
    You have the choice of buying a holding bin that is made of plastic or wood, or building one yourself using hardware cloth, pallets, metal barrels, limber and tires. These permanent structures can also be made with bricks, rocks and concrete blocks.
    If you decide to build one yourself using wood, avoid using those that are penta, creosote or copper arsenate (CCA). Don’t use these types of wood around your edible gardens either! These heavy metals can leak into your soil and go straight through your skin, giving you heavy metal toxicity or poisoning! I highly recommend you use wood that is naturally resistant to decay, such as cedar or pine that hasn’t been treated.

T URNING U NITS
    Unlike typical compost bins, the turning units are made specifically for aeration. You are able