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2-quart saucepan, a 4-quart saucepan, and a large (8-quart) stockpot. A roasting pan is also necessary for cooking meats, poultry, fish, and vegetables; look for a pan with a fitted rack. A nonstick 10-inch skillet is perfect for making omelets, a covered sauté pan for braising meat. Always look for thick, heavy pans, as they tend to be durable and the best distributors of heat. Those made of aluminum (preferably anodized to make them harder) or stainless steel are good options for everyday use.
    As your needs expand, you may want to add some of the following pieces.

    DOUBLE BOILER A double boiler, essentially two pans in one, provides gentle, indirect heat: The bottom pan holds simmering water, which becomes the heat source for the top pan. (You can improvise by setting an appropriately sized heatproof mixing bowl over a pot of simmering water.) Do not allow the water to touch the bottom of the top pot (or bowl), or the mixture may scorch. A double boiler is often preferred when melting chocolate or preparing custards and delicate cream sauces.

    DUTCH OVEN The shape and design of this heavy pot is ideal for long, slow cooking methods, such as braising. The thick bottom and sides evenly distribute heat and prevent hot spots; a tight-fitting lid traps in moisture. A 5-to 6-quart Dutch oven is best for braising meats and vegetables as well as making stews, casseroles, and pot roasts. Dutch ovens are ovenproof, so you can start by browning meat and other ingredients on the stove, then cover and transfer to the oven for even cooking.

    GRILL PAN Since they are used on top of the stove, these pans are a practical substitute for an outdoor grill. During cooking, the raised ridges give foods the characteristic grill marks (preheat the pan until very hot); they also allow the fat to drip below the food as it cooks. If you buy a cast-iron pan, be sure to season it before the first use; after that, avoid washing with soap, as it will remove the seasoned finish.

    WOK Originally from China, the wok is designed to cook food rapidly, its round-bottomed shape evenly spreading heat across its surface. Besides being especially suited for stir-frying, the wok can be used for steaming, deep-frying, and making stews.

    TOOLS AND GADGETS

    CITRUS REAMER Using an old-fashioned wooden reamer is a great way to quickly juice lemons and limes. The ridged, teardrop-shaped head is about the size of an egg and has a pointed tip that penetrates the fruit. To extract the most juice possible, roll the fruit on a work surface to soften it before halving, and then twist the reamer back and forth into the flesh, over a bowl. Strain the juice before using.

    COLANDER A colander is invaluable for draining pasta and vegetables. Most are footed, so they can stand in the sink, and have handles for easy transport. They come in many sizes, and are made of plastic, stainless steel, or porcelain ceramic.

    CUTTING BOARDS Whether you prefer plastic or wood boards, you may want to consider buying at least two to avoid cross-contamination: use one for raw meat and another for produce. It’s also helpful to have one large and one small board. To keep boards from slipping as you work, place a damp paper towel underneath.

    FOOD MILL Although you can use a food processor or blender to puree food, a food mill gives you greater control over the texture. Most models have three interchangeable disks, each perforated with fine, medium, or coarse holes for making purees of different thickness. Food mills also strain out seeds, skins, and other fibrous bits, so they are especially helpful for making applesauce as well as the smoothest sauces and soups. Fitted with the coarse disk, the food mill will produce mashed potatoes that are wonderfully fluffy.

    GRATERS
    box grater A box grater is versatile and convenient. Use it for grating cheese, citrus zest, raw fruits and vegetables, and whole nutmeg. Three sides offer different-size holes for grating; the slicing blades on the