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wasn't food, and I was there to tread on his toes, while he patched up the inner tube of a tyre that wore its tread like a race memory. I left him to it and went up to the bar.
    I nodded at a long-limbed guy slouched across a table. He nodded back. I washed in the two-man lavatory packed with seven desperate people jogging on the spot, their trainers squeaking on the tiled floor. The only things that were communicating were pacemakers and brand names.
    'The john don't flush,' said a weary voice from one of the cubicles. The room groaned. I got out of there.
    I ordered a beer and sat at the old guy's table. He introduced himself as Harold and told me about his trip, told me how many people had died on his trip, without my asking. I cut through it after five minutes and asked him if he'd seen the car. He said he had and that it was a dark saloon which was a big help—probably a Peugeot too, an even bigger help.
    It was suddenly dark. Harold still hadn't moved anything apart from his hat across his face. There was an intensity in the atmosphere, a stillness that meant that rain was charging down the coast towards us. Nobody spoke. A woman sighed and a man added a rattly cough—we could have been in the end ward of an old people's home, the ward closest to the Chapel of Rest.
    Lamplight flickered across the lagoon in the village. Low African voices coaxed the boats through the water. Toad-talk puckered the darkness and insects worked through the night. The air was stuffed into the room.
    'Gonna rain,' said Harold.
    The sprung fly-screen door whinged open and snapped shut. Harold's hat stopped for a moment. A younger man in his early sixties came in and told them they were going to leave. They moved as one. Harold straightened and said something about not wanting to die on the premises and an old woman from the group chastised him. He looked through me over my shoulder, out of the slatted windows and mosquito netting into the dark.
    'I wouldn't wanna die out here,' he said, and then focused on me as if I was a candidate.
    They filed out. Trousers hanging off bottoms with no buttocks, backs curved, forearms withered, breastless concave chests breathing shallow in the deep, thick air. The screen door slapped shut on the last of them.
    I moved further into the bar and sat by the window which should have shown the lagoon or given at least the comfort of water lapping but showed only the grey haze of netting on black and the sound of air fizzing. The minibus moved off. A light breeze fanned off the water and guttered the candles on the tables. I had two more hours to kill.
    The rain filled in the time. I helped it along with a few beers served by the barman who came from Sierra Leone and who demanded payment as soon as the bottle hit the table. He took the note and flattened it on the table, picking out any folds and creases and then folded it in half lengthways. He talked all the time, concentrating on his work and telling me he had left Sierra Leone because there was no work there and he reckoned the Liberian war was going to drift across the border and stir up trouble in the eastern part of his country where all the diamonds were.
    'They look for diamonds, buy guns,' he said. 'Where do they get the guns from?'
    'They have logs ... timber ... in Liberia, but no diamonds.'
    'But where do they get the guns from?'
    'On the east side, they have plenty wood. Fetch plenty money. You work in the logging camps?'
    'No. You?'
    'The guns,' he said, and stopped. The fly screen slapped behind a policeman wearing a black plastic bin liner which he stripped off. He sat down and the barman served him a drink he didn't pay for.
    The rain roared. The water ran down the mosquito netting and the wind blew spray through it on to my face. It was good to breathe cool air with oxygen in it. The barman went behind his counter, the rain too loud for conversation. I felt the policeman's eyes on me as I sipped the beer and replaced the glass on the same