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list for early spring is the artichoke. I remember the days when it was next to impossible to find organic artichokes. To satisfy our cravings, my son Jonah and I would treat ourselves to nonorganic artichokes. We regarded them as our “must-have junk food.” These days, more artichokes are grown organically, so we eat them often. Early spring is a time that beckons me back to the farmers’ market after a long, dormant winter. Whether or not there is a farmers’ market open near you, this is a good time of the year to become reacquainted with local farmers, fishermen, ranchers, cheese makers, and bread bakers—the people who grow and produce your food.
    29 Pea and Potato Cakes
    30 Herb-Stuffed Artichokes
    31 Exotic Mushroom Soup
    33 Asparagus and Scallops
    34 Lasagna with Chard
    35 Chicken with Greens and Spring Onions
    36 Quail with Preserved Lemons
    37 Lamb Chops with Strawberry–Rhubarb Sauce
    38 Filet Mignon with Smashed Potatoes and Leek Sauce
    40 Spring Vegetable Sauté
    41 Steamed Bok Choy and Water Chestnuts
    43 Baby Artichoke, Parsley, and Celery Salad
    44 Fennel and Apricot Salad
    45 Spring Greens, Onions, and Chives with Herb Butter–Radish Toasts
    46 Raspberry Millet Pancakes
    48 Dried Cranberry–Ricotta Dessert Pudding
    49 Banana-Walnut Shortbread
    50 Strawberry-Chocolate Cobbler
PEA AND POTATO CAKES
    MAKES 4 SERVINGS
    This is a great way to use up leftover mashed potatoes. If your leftovers are made with butter or milk, omit the cheese and add a little more flour to bind them. Always test a small cake first for consistency. Peas and potatoes are as good as it gets, but instead of peas, you can use bits of any delicate summer or winter vegetable, or a more robust one that has been cooked until very tender.
    ¾ pound fresh peas, shelled (about ¾ cup)
    4 tablespoons olive oil
    1 large onion, thinly sliced
    2 garlic cloves, minced
    2 cups cooked mashed potatoes
    1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese (about 4 ounces)
    3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
    ½ teaspoon salt
    ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
    4 cups mesclun or spring salad mix
    1 large carrot, shaved into curls with a peeler
    In a small saucepan, bring 1 inch of water to a boil over high heat. Add the peas and blanch for 2 minutes. Drain, put in a medium bowl, and cool slightly.
    Wipe the saucepan clean and heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 4 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes. Place in a large bowl and cool slightly.
    Add the peas, potatoes, cheese, flour, salt, and pepper to the bowl. Stir until well-blended. Shape into 8 round cakes.
    Heat 1½ tablespoons of the remaining olive oil in the same skillet over medium heat. Add 4 cakes and cook for 8 minutes, turning once, or until browned and heated through. Transfer the cakes to a plate and keep warm. Repeat with the remaining 4 cakes.
    Divide the mesclun and carrot curls evenly among 4 plates and top with the cakes.
    VARIATIONS
    This recipe is quite flexible. Try using sweet potatoes instead of the white, and fresh asparagus instead of the peas.
HERB-STUFFED ARTICHOKES
    MAKES 4 SERVINGS
    This recipe was inspired by my love of fresh goat cheese from one of our favorite local producers, Harley Farms, in the Santa Cruz Mountains of California. Artichokes are not easy to grow organically, so when we can find them, we buy as many as our hands can hold.
    4 medium artichokes
    8 ounces soft goat cheese, such as chèvre
    2 tablespoons dry bread crumbs
    2 garlic cloves, minced
    2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
    1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
    Salt
    Freshly ground black pepper
    1 tablespoon olive oil
    Juice of 1 large lemon
    Put a steamer basket in a large pot and add 2 inches of water. Bring to a boil over high heat.
    Using scissors, trim off the sharp tips of the outer leaves of the artichokes. Put the artichokes in the steamer basket and steam for 25 to 35 minutes, or until tender. Turn the steamer upside down over a