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the slicing can be done well in advance, up to 4 hours, as long as it’s refrigerated.
½ pound striped bass (or other sushi-grade fish), skin removed
3 ounces cold-smoked fish, preferably striped bass
4 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
12 leaves fresh flat-leaf Italian parsley, coarsely chopped
1 orange, supremed, juices reserved (see note)
1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon lightly chopped fennel fronds
½ cup halved heirloom cherry tomatoes (mixed colors)
½ shallot, minced
2 tablespoons Vin Santo
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
    Chill 4 plates.
    Slice the raw bass paper-thin, on a slight bias and against the grain of the fish. Depending on how thinly you slice, you should have between 16 and 24 slices. Arrange the slices in two separate groupings of 2 to 3 slices on each of the chilled plates. This is two parts of the crudo trio.
    For the third part of the trio, thinly slice (or, if easier, flake) the smoked fish into 12 to 20 pieces and divide into 4 portions. Add to the chilled plates.
    On each plate, sprinkle 1 teaspoon lemon juice, ¼ teaspoon lemon zest, one-quarter of the coarsely chopped parsley, and one quarter of the reserved juices over one of the groupings of sliced bass.
    In a small bowl, combine the orange segments, red pepper flakes, and fennel fronds. Stir to combine. Spoon 3 orange segments over each second grouping of sliced bass.
    In another small bowl, combine the tomatoes, shallot, and Vin Santo. Stir to combine and spoon over each grouping of the smoked fish.
    Lightly season each fish grouping with salt and pepper to taste. Top with a drizzle of finishing extra virgin olive oil. Serve immediately.
    IMPORTANTE!   Supreming is a way of extracting the juiciest, purest segments from a fruit, and an easy technique to master. Using a sharp knife, trim the top and bottom of the orange (by either a ¼-inch or ½-inch). Do this over a bowl to capture the juices. Then, carefully cut away the peel, making sure to remove the pith just under the peel as well. (Do this by cutting from the top down.) Then, remove the wedges by cutting as close to the white membrane as possible, through the fruit to the center, then following through along the very next membrane. This should result in nice, juicy-looking segments.



HANDMADE PAPPARDELLE
    PAPPARDELLE FATTE IN CASA
    MAKES 1 POUND
    One of the big draws of making your own pasta is the feeling you get working with your hands, which is why Gabriele’s grandmother didn’t like to use a pasta machine. She liked how that marble pin felt as she crafted her exquisite batches of pasta. So we suggest you skip the pasta machine part and roll the dough on a big surface until you achieve the thickness you want. You might surprise yourself with how much you enjoy making your own fresh pasta! Serve the pappardelle with either a delicious Duck Ragu or hearty “Fake” Sauce .
3½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
¾ teaspoon salt, plus more for the pasta pot
4 large eggs, preferably farm fresh, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
Semolina flour, for dusting
    Add the flour and salt to the center of a large wooden board. Use your hands and make a well in the center of the mound. In a bowl, whisk together the eggs and olive oil and pour into the well. Use a fork to slowly mix the eggs into the flour until they are completely incorporated.
    Knead the pasta dough for about 8 minutes, adding flour in small increments if the board gets sticky. If the dough feels too dry, add 1 teaspoon of water occasionally as you go. The dough should feel elastic and smooth. Shape the pasta dough into a ball and cover it in plastic wrap. Let rest for at least 30 minutes at room temperature to let the gluten relax. This will make the rolling easier.
    Set your pasta machine to the widest setting. Divide the dough into 4 pieces. Roll each piece through the machine, from the widest setting to the